To begin installing your new Mustang Edelbrock Carburetor with Electric Choke , pop your hood and remove the air filter from your existing carburetor. Make sure you disconnect your Mustang battery. The best time to replace your carburetor is when the engine is cold. Otherwise, you may burn your fingers or cause a fire. Locate the fuel line on your old carburetor. Place a rag beneath the fuel line to catch any fuel that may spill out. Remove the clamps using a screwdriver, then disconnect the fuel line. Plug the fuel line with a wooden dowel or a center punch to prevent any fuel from coming out, as well as to prevent contaminants from entering as you work on the carburetor. The linkage can be swung out of your way as you work.
vacuum secondary carb ?
Some will say it has to go to ported vacuum and others say straight to manifold vacuum is just as good. I know in the past, I have tended to use vacuum straight from the manifold as it was my belief that idle quality and off idle performance improved. It also seemed to me that since you use less throttle opening with the manifold vacuum supply, that you would use less fuel. Today I found a site that explains what is really happening to the vacuum signal from both sources.
Here is a chart of throttle position versus both manifold and ported vacuum: This chart is taken from gofastforless.
In certain instances, there can be a slight vacuum between the carb and the top of the blower and the last thing you want is for the distributor to get a false vacuum signal and advance timing.
You can also find other images like wiring diagram, parts diagram, replacement parts, electrical diagram, repair manuals, engine diagram, engine scheme, wiring harness, fuse box, vacuum diagram, timing belt, timing chain, brakes diagram, transmission diagram, and engine problems. Please click next button to view more images The following holley carburetor vacuum lines picture has been published.
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carb ported and manifold vacuum question
This guide can help! If you know enough to be dangerous when tuning your carb, but not enough to get it right, you need to read this! You will need to know the basics about how to work on your Holley, and a book or two will really help a bunch, because of the pictures and part numbers in them.
Feb 02, · Yes if you hook up your distributor vacuum to a direct manifold vacuum port at Idle it will pull advance. So lets say you set initial with the vacuum hose off at 12 degrees. If you plug it into direct manifold vacuum the vacuum advance will pull more advance probably around 30 to 32 degrees depending on the unit at idle.
Be sure to save the illustrations separately. The opinions expressed here are my experiences, and your experiences may vary. I don’t put myself forward as the world’s leading expert on Holleys, but I do have some helpful ideas. In some cases, I may not be able to answer specific questions, but I’ll do my best. I know very little about other brands of carburetors and have no information about them, only general operating principles.
I have NO experience with any type of supercharger or turbocharger, so please don’t ask me anything about your blower or turbo applications. The following few paragraphs is a set of rules I had to create because people were emailing me without enough information or asking really stupid questions that I had no way to answer. The rules didn’t just happen overnight, nor were they something I wanted to do. But I kept getting questions from people who didn’t do any reading or they asked a question I didn’t have any way to answer.
Look at the rules, and think about the stupid question that I got asked 50 times, and you’ll understand why I had to write them. Before emailing me with your questions, you must read and abide by these rules: Many of your questions are already asked and answered on this page.
What port do you put the vacuum advance vacuum hose on the holley carb?
What’s next Installing Dual Carburetors Pretty much all the books on flatheads don’t recommend more than dual carburetors for street use, and many of the newer books recommend putting on a four barrel carburetor instead of two carburetors. At the same time, two, three or more carburetors were the only choices back in the 40’s and early 50’s.
Plus the decorative possibilities for multiple carburetor setups are almost endless:
Afterthat, install the vacuum advance to the port that is signaled orright above the throttle plate. Once that is completed, install thelarge vacuum line to the back of the carb for the power brake.
Car Year, Make, Model: Tuning carb with a vacuum gauge Hook up your vacuum guage to the intake manifold port of the carb sucks at idle. Set you rpm about where you want it to be. Adjust your idle mixture screws to give you the highest manifold vacuum reading which should be the highest idle rpm reading with the throttle butterflies closed. Re-set your idle rpm. Run it a while and read your spark plugs. If they are sooty, or wet, then lean it out a bit with the jets and metering rods strip kit Be super careful to read your instructions with your strip kit because: I usually let my technician tweak the knobs.
She is that good! One small change at a time and you can crispen this carb up real nice.
Tuning Carburetors: A Guide for People as Inexperienced as Me
Before you start work, replace any cracked or missing vacuum hoses, and check vacuum hose routing against your service manual diagrams or, in most cars, a color sticker under the hood somewhere. Make sure you get the right grade of vacuum hose; anything carrying gasoline or emissions fumes require a special material. When in doubt, get the pricier but safer gasoline-safe hoses. Vacuum hose, gauges, and Ts are sold by most auto parts stores.
Dec 31, · Definitely hook up the vacuum advance to ported if you have it available. Remember to do all your adjustments to static and mechanical before hooking up and tuning the vacuum. Let us know how it works for you.
May 30th, 05 When do you know it’s time to drill holes in the sec butterflies of a holley?. My dp will idle in park with the sec butterflies cracked and the primary backed right off front not open at all. On the other hand if I close the back a little, but not shut , and use the front to idle it up idles nice in park as soon as I put it in gear it quits. The dp has 72 in front and 82 in back and a 4. When idling in gear around rpm I have 6 inches of vacuum.
Shaun are you using a vacuum advance? TriplblackL78 May 30th, 05 On this carb there appears to only be 2 hook ups and they are both in the base plate. RatONaStick May 30th, 05 The only spot to hook up a vacuum line are both on the base plate 1 larger one on the pass side of carb and the other is under the front and to the pass side. I’ll have to do the check tomorrow as I have to go work shortly.
Trying to adjust timing & no vacuum advance hose
I think I’ve got the vacuum lines hooked up backwards! Let me make sure I have this straight: The MAIN vacuum line attaches to the port on the vacuum chamber at the rear actually mine comes out of the side pointing toward the fuel pump, but that’s okay and goes to the vacuum port on the left side of the carby under the stepped cam. This is the line that is metal and has the dipsy-doodle fuel condensation trip in it. The RETARD vacuum line attaches to the port on the front front bottom of the vacuum chamber and goes to the port on the rear of the carburetor, just to the right of the throttle return spring.
Sep 18, · i have a mechanical advance distributor and a vacuum secondary carb. do i have to hook up a vacuum hose to the carb so it will work or not? can u use this combination?
You may want to review why advance is needed by reviewing this page. The Holley Load O Matic distributor was standard equipment on to Y Blocks, to flatheads, and many Ford 6s offered into the 60s. Given that, from the outside, they appear like a conventional distributor and from the inside, their principles are a little obscure, here is an explanation of how the Load O Matic works.
To sense speed, or rpm, conventional distributors, such as the and up Y Block distributors, use centrifugal weights that are controlled by spring counterbalances. The faster the engine runs, the further the weights fly out and the more advance that is provided. To sense the load of the engine, the manifold vacuum signal is used. When an engine has a light load, the vacuum is high. At the highest load, the vacuum will approach almost zero, especially if the carburetor is large enough for the engine.
The vacuum canister on the distributor senses the manifold vacuum, which is directly related to engine load, and controls the advance accordingly: Both the mechanical and the vacuum advance work together to provide the right advance for any combination of engine load and speed. On the Holley Load O Matic unit, the difference is the way the distributor senses the engine speed.
vacuum advance on a Weber?
It can also be used for the EGR valve. Chevelleguy ] 88sunroof , At least, that’s how it is on my ‘
Oct 11, · hifooy07 wrote: i cant hook the vacuum advance up. once i do it will not go over rpm it sputters sooo bad it over heats goin up hills, which would be to retarded right? no the EFI head requires less spark advance so the vacuum advance is probably causing detonation from over advance.
September 13, , This requires that lean mixtures have “the fire lit” earlier in the compression cycle spark timing advanced , allowing more burn time so that peak cylinder pressure is reached just after TDC for peak efficiency and reduced exhaust gas temperature wasted combustion energy. Rich mixtures, on the other hand, burn faster than lean mixtures, so they need to have “the fire lit” later in the compression cycle spark timing retarded slightly so maximum cylinder pressure is still achieved at the same point after TDC as with the lean mixture, for maximum efficiency.
The centrifugal advance system in a distributor advances spark timing purely as a function of engine rpm irrespective of engine load or operating conditions , with the amount of advance and the rate at which it comes in determined by the weights and springs on top of the autocam mechanism. The amount of advance added by the distributor, combined with initial static timing, is “total timing” i. Vacuum advance has absolutely nothing to do with total timing or performance, as when the throttle is opened, manifold vacuum drops essentially to zero, and the vacuum advance drops out entirely; it has no part in the “total timing” equation.
At idle, the engine needs additional spark advance in order to fire that lean, diluted mixture earlier in order to develop maximum cylinder pressure at the proper point, so the vacuum advance can connected to manifold vacuum, not “ported” vacuum – more on that aberration later is activated by the high manifold vacuum, and adds about 15 degrees of spark advance, on top of the initial static timing setting i.
When you accelerate, the mixture is instantly enriched by the accelerator pump, power valve, etc. The key difference is that centrifugal advance in the distributor autocam via weights and springs is purely rpm-sensitive; nothing changes it except changes in rpm. Vacuum advance, on the other hand, responds to engine load and rapidly-changing operating conditions, providing the correct degree of spark advance at any point in time based on engine load, to deal with both lean and rich mixture conditions.